Discussion:
The Perfect Stall
(too old to reply)
C***@Emanindustries.com
2007-02-14 05:52:46 UTC
Permalink
Sadly many of horses today are left in stalls for the large part of
their lives. For some this may be for convenience such as riding
stables and others are kept in so they stay clean and for shows.
Because our horses spend so much time in their stalls, it is important
that we provide them with the best stall possible that is safe and
clean.



A horse won't stay standing forever and many like to be able to take a
load off and lie down. This means that a horse must have ample room
to prevent from getting cast. Many horses will lie down and not leave
themselves with enough room to get back up again because they have
lied down to close to the wall. The standard measurement for a box is
twelve by twelve feet. This is generally large enough for a horse to
lie down comfortably and still be able to get up. There may rare
occasions, however, when the horse does lied down to close to the wall
and then unable to get up. Ponies will not typically need more than a
ten by ten foot stall. If you have large breed horses such as
Throughbreds, Appendix Quarter Horses, or Warmbloods, then you may
choose to go with a larger sixteen by sixteen foot stall. These are
often referred to as stallion or foaling stalls.



The partitions between the stalls should be made of heavy two-inch
planks up to a height of about five feet or so. The edges should be
reinforced with metal so that the horses are not able to chew them
down. Another partition is often placed above the walls that allow
the horses to see each other but not necessarily make contact. This
is also true for the front of the stall. Stall doors may also have a
gate that swings up and down to all the horse to stick his head out of
the stall and into the barn aisle. The stall should be well
ventilated as a horse can emit a lot of heat and a poorly ventilated
stall can cause an increase bacterial growth that is not good for the
horse's health.



The less that there is in the stall the better. Most stalls will be
outfitted with a feeder and perhaps an automatic water or water bucket
holder. Anything that is in the stall should be secured, as horses
may bang their feeders on the wall. There should also not be anything
pointed or jagged that could cut or stab the horse. Some horses may
require something to keep them occupied and there are several stall
toys made just for horses. A stocked hay net will also keep your
horse happy and busy while you are away.



Don't underestimate your horse's ability to open his stall door. Many
horses have spent hours fiddling with the latch on their doors until
they were finally able to free themselves. Once they have done it
once, it is pretty much guaranteed they will do it again. In fact,
they may get even better at it with practice. This means you will
need to outfit doors with a chain and clip or horse-proof bolts.



Most farms today use shavings for their horse's bedding. Many will
generously stock the stall with shavings, however, this can actually
do your horse more harm than good. Too much bedding decreases the
amount of stress put on the horse's legs. If the horse stands in
bedding that is too thick all day, his bones will slowly become more
brittle. This means that you may one day find yourself riding and the
horse fractures his leg because his bones have adapted to the soft
ground of the stall. Shavings are excellent to help protect the horse
from the cold ground, but use them in moderation.

=======================
Equine Classifieds - Forum - Articles
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Bambi C.
2007-02-14 13:42:14 UTC
Permalink
Thanks for your post about horse stalls. The part about bone loss due to
standing on a thick layer of shavings was something I'd never heard before.

I have a question. What is considered an adequate amount of headroom? I
have an old dairy barn on my property and am thinking about using it for a
horse. The ceilings are about 8 to 9 feet high; the horse is 16.1 hands
tall.

Bambi C.
Post by C***@Emanindustries.com
Sadly many of horses today are left in stalls for the large part of
their lives. For some this may be for convenience such as riding
stables and others are kept in so they stay clean and for shows.
Because our horses spend so much time in their stalls, it is important
that we provide them with the best stall possible that is safe and
clean.
A horse won't stay standing forever and many like to be able to take a
load off and lie down. This means that a horse must have ample room
to prevent from getting cast. Many horses will lie down and not leave
themselves with enough room to get back up again because they have
lied down to close to the wall. The standard measurement for a box is
twelve by twelve feet. This is generally large enough for a horse to
lie down comfortably and still be able to get up. There may rare
occasions, however, when the horse does lied down to close to the wall
and then unable to get up. Ponies will not typically need more than a
ten by ten foot stall. If you have large breed horses such as
Throughbreds, Appendix Quarter Horses, or Warmbloods, then you may
choose to go with a larger sixteen by sixteen foot stall. These are
often referred to as stallion or foaling stalls.
The partitions between the stalls should be made of heavy two-inch
planks up to a height of about five feet or so. The edges should be
reinforced with metal so that the horses are not able to chew them
down. Another partition is often placed above the walls that allow
the horses to see each other but not necessarily make contact. This
is also true for the front of the stall. Stall doors may also have a
gate that swings up and down to all the horse to stick his head out of
the stall and into the barn aisle. The stall should be well
ventilated as a horse can emit a lot of heat and a poorly ventilated
stall can cause an increase bacterial growth that is not good for the
horse's health.
The less that there is in the stall the better. Most stalls will be
outfitted with a feeder and perhaps an automatic water or water bucket
holder. Anything that is in the stall should be secured, as horses
may bang their feeders on the wall. There should also not be anything
pointed or jagged that could cut or stab the horse. Some horses may
require something to keep them occupied and there are several stall
toys made just for horses. A stocked hay net will also keep your
horse happy and busy while you are away.
Don't underestimate your horse's ability to open his stall door. Many
horses have spent hours fiddling with the latch on their doors until
they were finally able to free themselves. Once they have done it
once, it is pretty much guaranteed they will do it again. In fact,
they may get even better at it with practice. This means you will
need to outfit doors with a chain and clip or horse-proof bolts.
Most farms today use shavings for their horse's bedding. Many will
generously stock the stall with shavings, however, this can actually
do your horse more harm than good. Too much bedding decreases the
amount of stress put on the horse's legs. If the horse stands in
bedding that is too thick all day, his bones will slowly become more
brittle. This means that you may one day find yourself riding and the
horse fractures his leg because his bones have adapted to the soft
ground of the stall. Shavings are excellent to help protect the horse
from the cold ground, but use them in moderation.
=======================
Equine Classifieds - Forum - Articles
http://www.theequineyard.com
C***@Emanindustries.com
2007-02-15 17:01:35 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bambi C.
Thanks for your post about horse stalls. The part about bone loss due to
standing on a thick layer of shavings was something I'd never heard before.
I have a question. What is considered an adequate amount of headroom? I
have an old dairy barn on my property and am thinking about using it for a
horse. The ceilings are about 8 to 9 feet high; the horse is 16.1 hands
tall.
Bambi;

Most barns are around 10-12 feet 8 is usually the lowest. And you got
yourself a warmblood? He/she is pretty tall. The biggest worries are
when the horse spooks. That is when the damage is done not an
occasional bump.
I would be careful with that especially on the construction of the
barn how are the rafters built? Wood or Tube?
Bambi C.
2007-02-16 00:31:28 UTC
Permalink
Post by C***@Emanindustries.com
Most barns are around 10-12 feet 8 is usually the lowest. And you got
yourself a warmblood? He/she is pretty tall. The biggest worries are
when the horse spooks. That is when the damage is done not an
occasional bump.
I would be careful with that especially on the construction of the
barn how are the rafters built? Wood or Tube?
I don't have this horse, but will by spring unless the owner decides to sell
him sooner. In that case I'll board him until spring, when I can put up
fences and prepare a stall. He's a retired TB, 12 years old. He's quite
calm and settled, but I can't say that he'll never spook in his stall.
That's why I'm worried about the ceiling height.

The barn is very old (about 100 years) and very solid, framed with huge old
timbers. I wouldn't be surprised if there actually were work horses stabled
there long ago.

My backup plan is to build a three-sided run-in shed, but I'd rather use the
barn if I can.

Thanks for your advice. Seems like we are the only two in the room! (other
than spammers)

Bambi C.
Alison Hiltabidle
2007-02-16 02:14:45 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bambi C.
Post by C***@Emanindustries.com
Most barns are around 10-12 feet 8 is usually the lowest. And you got
yourself a warmblood? He/she is pretty tall. The biggest worries are
when the horse spooks. That is when the damage is done not an
occasional bump.
I would be careful with that especially on the construction of the
barn how are the rafters built? Wood or Tube?
I don't have this horse, but will by spring unless the owner decides to sell
him sooner. In that case I'll board him until spring, when I can put up
fences and prepare a stall. He's a retired TB, 12 years old. He's quite
calm and settled, but I can't say that he'll never spook in his stall. That's
why I'm worried about the ceiling height.
The barn is very old (about 100 years) and very solid, framed with huge old
timbers. I wouldn't be surprised if there actually were work horses stabled
there long ago.
My backup plan is to build a three-sided run-in shed, but I'd rather use the
barn if I can.
Thanks for your advice. Seems like we are the only two in the room! (other
than spammers)
Bambi C.
Bambi, I currently have two horses in a barn very similar to the one
you are describing. What is the floor made of? You may want to look
into hiring someone to dig out the barn floor so that you have enough
height. The farm owner did that with the barn that I'm in;took it down
about 6- 8 inches. the floor is dirt, and when he built stalls, he put
in rubber mats. Cheaper would be to go with the run - in. If it were
me, I'd get a contractor or two to take a look at the barn and get some
quotes.
C***@Emanindustries.com
2007-02-16 23:39:05 UTC
Permalink
Post by Alison Hiltabidle
Bambi, I currently have two horses in a barn very similar to the one
you are describing. What is the floor made of? You may want to look
into hiring someone to dig out the barn floor so that you have enough
That is a really good idead Alison.. if you only need 6 inches.. it
would be a nice weekend project.. very good idea.. and cheap!
Bambi C.
2007-02-19 00:21:03 UTC
Permalink
Post by C***@Emanindustries.com
Post by Alison Hiltabidle
Bambi, I currently have two horses in a barn very similar to the one
you are describing. What is the floor made of? You may want to look
into hiring someone to dig out the barn floor so that you have enough
That is a really good idead Alison.. if you only need 6 inches.. it
would be a nice weekend project.. very good idea.. and cheap!
That *is* a good idea! Unfortunately the floor is concrete though.

Bambi C.
Alison Hiltabidle
2007-02-19 10:43:02 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bambi C.
Post by C***@Emanindustries.com
Post by Alison Hiltabidle
Bambi, I currently have two horses in a barn very similar to the one
you are describing. What is the floor made of? You may want to look
into hiring someone to dig out the barn floor so that you have enough
That is a really good idead Alison.. if you only need 6 inches.. it
would be a nice weekend project.. very good idea.. and cheap!
That *is* a good idea! Unfortunately the floor is concrete though.
Bambi C.
I'm not sure just how high the ceiling is in the barn. I'll measure
this morning and let you know.
Bambi C.
2007-02-19 14:58:07 UTC
Permalink
I'm not sure just how high the ceiling is in the barn. I'll measure this
morning and let you know.
Don't go to a lot of trouble! I was just wondering if there was some kind
of equation, like
height of horse + x number of feet = safe ceiling height for horses. (That
sounds suspiciously like algebra! lol)

The barn's snowed in right now, or I'd go measure it myself.

Thanks,
Bambi C.
Alison Hiltabidle
2007-02-19 15:46:54 UTC
Permalink
I'm not sure just how high the ceiling is in the barn. I'll measure this
morning and let you know.
Don't go to a lot of trouble! I was just wondering if there was some kind of
equation, like
height of horse + x number of feet = safe ceiling height for horses. (That
sounds suspiciously like algebra! lol)
The barn's snowed in right now, or I'd go measure it myself.
Thanks,
Bambi C.
I don't think so; the ceiling at my barn is about 10 feet. Your barn
should be just fine. are there stalls already, or do youhave to build
some?
Bambi C.
2007-02-19 16:18:19 UTC
Permalink
Post by Alison Hiltabidle
I don't think so; the ceiling at my barn is about 10 feet. Your barn
should be just fine. are there stalls already, or do youhave to build
some?
There's one large stall, approximately 16 x 16, that we used to use for cows
delivering their calves. We called it the maternity pen. It's located
between the milking area of the barn and the back section of the barn where
the calves were raised. It has a walk-thru door to the outside, which I
plan to change to a larger sliding door.

I'll fence a small paddock area there, with access to the 5-acre field
beside the barn. The field will also need to be fenced, so I'd also welcome
any fencing suggestions.

I get excited just thinking about it! This will be my first horse, I've
wanted one ever since I was a little girl. (I'm forty-mumble-something
now.)

Bambi C.
Alison Hiltabidle
2007-02-19 22:06:11 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bambi C.
Post by Alison Hiltabidle
I don't think so; the ceiling at my barn is about 10 feet. Your barn
should be just fine. are there stalls already, or do youhave to build
some?
There's one large stall, approximately 16 x 16, that we used to use for cows
delivering their calves. We called it the maternity pen. It's located
between the milking area of the barn and the back section of the barn where
the calves were raised. It has a walk-thru door to the outside, which I plan
to change to a larger sliding door.
I'll fence a small paddock area there, with access to the 5-acre field beside
the barn. The field will also need to be fenced, so I'd also welcome any
fencing suggestions.
I get excited just thinking about it! This will be my first horse, I've
wanted one ever since I was a little girl. (I'm forty-mumble-something now.)
Bambi C.
That's a decent sized stall - you might want to cut it down some
(cleaning a stall that size will be a MAJOR pain) but it should work
just fine. I'd also put rubber mats down, if you haven't already.
Cement and horse's legs to mix well, for several reasons; (1) hard on
their feet (2) horse lays down and gets scraped by cement. If you can
set up an area that the horse can use as a run-in, that would not be a
bad plan; gives him the option to come or go, with the stall, you can
bring him in when needed. I've always been of the opinion that horses
should know how to be stalled, even if they are not stalled on a
regular basis. Saves on the stress factor. As far as fencing goes,
I'd find some places in the area and see what they use; barbed wire is
out, but I've had decent luck with 5 strand high-tensile, with the
first, third and fifth strands hot. I'd get a pro to do the
installation (but only because I *really* don't want to do the work).
There are other fencing products out there that are plastic, but I've
never liked them; with hot wire, the horse will touch it once, get bit
by the shock, an leave it alone. With just one horse you won't have
the worry of another horse running him into the fence (which I've seen
happen). Of course, other folks will have differing opinions on
fencing. I'd ask the locals and see what they use; but I would NOT use
barbed wire for all the tea in China. If you want to use board fence,
I'd think about running a hotwire around the inside top board. Keeps
Pony from chewing on wood. With enough grass, he shouldn't want to
chew, anyway.

Good luck with him.
Alison Hiltabidle
2007-02-19 22:55:40 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bambi C.
Post by Alison Hiltabidle
I don't think so; the ceiling at my barn is about 10 feet. Your barn
should be just fine. are there stalls already, or do youhave to build
some?
There's one large stall, approximately 16 x 16, that we used to use for
cows delivering their calves. We called it the maternity pen. It's
located between the milking area of the barn and the back section of the
barn where the calves were raised. It has a walk-thru door to the outside,
which I plan to change to a larger sliding door.
I'll fence a small paddock area there, with access to the 5-acre field
beside the barn. The field will also need to be fenced, so I'd also
welcome any fencing suggestions.
I get excited just thinking about it! This will be my first horse, I've
wanted one ever since I was a little girl. (I'm forty-mumble-something now.)
Bambi C.
That's a decent sized stall - you might want to cut it down some (cleaning a
stall that size will be a MAJOR pain) but it should work just fine. I'd also
put rubber mats down, if you haven't already. Cement and horse's legs to mix
well, for several reasons; (1) hard on their feet (2) horse lays down and
gets scraped by cement. If you can set up an area that the horse can use as
a run-in, that would not be a bad plan; gives him the option to come or go,
with the stall, you can bring him in when needed. I've always been of the
opinion that horses should know how to be stalled, even if they are not
stalled on a regular basis. Saves on the stress factor. As far as fencing
goes, I'd find some places in the area and see what they use; barbed wire is
out, but I've had decent luck with 5 strand high-tensile, with the first,
third and fifth strands hot. I'd get a pro to do the installation (but only
because I *really* don't want to do the work). There are other fencing
products out there that are plastic, but I've never liked them; with hot
wire, the horse will touch it once, get bit by the shock, an leave it alone.
With just one horse you won't have the worry of another horse running him
into the fence (which I've seen happen). Of course, other folks will have
differing opinions on fencing. I'd ask the locals and see what they use; but
I would NOT use barbed wire for all the tea in China. If you want to use
board fence, I'd think about running a hotwire around the inside top board.
Keeps Pony from chewing on wood. With enough grass, he shouldn't want to
chew, anyway.
Good luck with him.
Not to post on myself, but, you might want to take a look at some of
the books that Cherry Hill has out; keeping a horse on small acreage
(or something like that) comes to mind. If you've not had a horse
before, it's not a bad idea to do some reading. If you can help out at
the barn where he is now, that would be good too ... just a thought.
Bambi C.
2007-02-20 12:24:01 UTC
Permalink
Not to worry, I'm getting a few equine reference books and have a very good
mentor who will be there for advice whenever I need it.

I'm thinking of getting electric tape for fencing. No way would I EVER get
barbed wire! Wood with a top electric wire would be my second choice.

Floor mats are on my list of things to buy, along with buckets, grooming
supplies, medical supplies, etc. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I get
the Jeffers catalog!

I also need to figure out what to get to keep him company. I'm debating
between goats, a mini, a rideable horse, or a retired horse. In the end, I
suppose it will come down to which is the cheapest to maintain.

Thanks for all your good advice!

Bambi C.
Post by Alison Hiltabidle
Post by Bambi C.
Post by Alison Hiltabidle
I don't think so; the ceiling at my barn is about 10 feet. Your barn
should be just fine. are there stalls already, or do youhave to build
some?
There's one large stall, approximately 16 x 16, that we used to use for
cows delivering their calves. We called it the maternity pen. It's
located between the milking area of the barn and the back section of the
barn where the calves were raised. It has a walk-thru door to the
outside, which I plan to change to a larger sliding door.
I'll fence a small paddock area there, with access to the 5-acre field
beside the barn. The field will also need to be fenced, so I'd also
welcome any fencing suggestions.
I get excited just thinking about it! This will be my first horse, I've
wanted one ever since I was a little girl. (I'm forty-mumble-something now.)
Bambi C.
That's a decent sized stall - you might want to cut it down some
(cleaning a stall that size will be a MAJOR pain) but it should work just
fine. I'd also put rubber mats down, if you haven't already. Cement and
horse's legs to mix well, for several reasons; (1) hard on their feet (2)
horse lays down and gets scraped by cement. If you can set up an area
that the horse can use as a run-in, that would not be a bad plan; gives
him the option to come or go, with the stall, you can bring him in when
needed. I've always been of the opinion that horses should know how to
be stalled, even if they are not stalled on a regular basis. Saves on
the stress factor. As far as fencing goes, I'd find some places in the
area and see what they use; barbed wire is out, but I've had decent luck
with 5 strand high-tensile, with the first, third and fifth strands hot.
I'd get a pro to do the installation (but only because I *really* don't
want to do the work). There are other fencing products out there that
are plastic, but I've never liked them; with hot wire, the horse will
touch it once, get bit by the shock, an leave it alone. With just one
horse you won't have the worry of another horse running him into the
fence (which I've seen happen). Of course, other folks will have
differing opinions on fencing. I'd ask the locals and see what they use;
but I would NOT use barbed wire for all the tea in China. If you want to
use board fence, I'd think about running a hotwire around the inside top
board. Keeps Pony from chewing on wood. With enough grass, he shouldn't
want to chew, anyway.
Good luck with him.
Not to post on myself, but, you might want to take a look at some of the
books that Cherry Hill has out; keeping a horse on small acreage (or
something like that) comes to mind. If you've not had a horse before,
it's not a bad idea to do some reading. If you can help out at the barn
where he is now, that would be good too ... just a thought.
Alison Hiltabidle
2007-02-20 16:15:09 UTC
Permalink
Post by Bambi C.
Not to worry, I'm getting a few equine reference books and have a very good
mentor who will be there for advice whenever I need it.
I'm thinking of getting electric tape for fencing. No way would I EVER get
barbed wire! Wood with a top electric wire would be my second choice.
Floor mats are on my list of things to buy, along with buckets, grooming
supplies, medical supplies, etc. I'm like a kid in a candy store when I get
the Jeffers catalog!
I also need to figure out what to get to keep him company. I'm debating
between goats, a mini, a rideable horse, or a retired horse. In the end, I
suppose it will come down to which is the cheapest to maintain.
Thanks for all your good advice!
Bambi C.
I don't like tape. It's too flimsy, breaks too easily. (I have had to
work with it before) But then, there are folks that don't like
high-tensile because it can be dangerous for the horse, if they run
through it. I would NOT want to use electric tape as the main
ingredient that is supposed to keep my animals contained. Reason?
Complacency. We get complacent about the status quo; and it takes so
little for the tape to break. I'd rather have some thing that I know
is going to be harder to get out of.

As far as companion animals is concerned, I'd go for (a) retired horse
or (b) rideable horse. Goats are just too much of a pain in the ass to
keep in. A mini can be equally hard to contain; just think of how low
that fence line would have to be. A large-ish pony or another horse
would be just the thing.

Good luck with it.

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